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Japanese whisky industry matures with int'l acclaim, 10 times more makers in a decade

TOKYO -- Certain types of whisky are international favourites: Scotch from Scotland, Irish whisky from Ireland, American blends like bourbon, and Canadian whisky with its rich history. Recently, Japanese whisky is increasingly being acknowledged as one of the world's five major whisky styles, joining their ranks.

Leading Japan's whisky production are two major companies, Suntory Holdings Ltd. and Nikka Whisky Distilling Co. These companies have spent decades perfecting their flavours while engaging in a friendly competition. Since the early 2000s, their whiskies have consistently earned high acclaim at international competitions, enhancing Japan's global reputation for whisky.

"Can whisky become a truly Japanese industry?" we're at a crossroads, commented Takahiro Inagaki, the 37-year-old chief executive of Wakatsuru Shuzo Co. Founded in 1862, the sake brewery in Toyama Prefecture is most famous for Wakatsuru, a high-end sake. Nevertheless, the company has been producing whisky since 1952 at its Saburomaru Distillery.

Inagaki returned to his family business in his twenties after working for a foreign-affiliated company. While seeking ways to rejuvenate the firm, he stumbled upon a whisky produced by his great-grandfather, Kotaro, which had been aged for over six decades. Although his employees questioned its edibility, Inagaki got it tried and was struck by its complex, full-bodied flavor.

Drawing inspiration from this discovery, he revamped the distillery's aging facilities and joined the role of master blender, crafting whiskies tailored to his own preferences. This transformation coincided with an unprecedented surge in Japanese whisky's popularity.

Wakatsuru Shuzo, previously centered on sake production, now derives approximately 80% of its revenue from whisky. The company has also started exporting its products.

Across Japan, the whisky industry is experiencing rapid growth. Over the past decade, the number of distilleries has increased by more than ten times to approximately 100.

Despite the craft of whisky-making being rigorous, it requires considerable time and expertise, placing a limitation on both talent and resources. Consequently, the majority of skilled personnel and resources are concentrated among the largest companies, with uncertainty regarding the longevity of the newer distilleries.

"In order for Japan to excel in the world's whisky industry, it's essential to strengthen our whisky-making base," stated Inagaki. He has also provided support to up-and-coming distilleries by refurbishing barrels, a critical component of the whisky aging process.

Once dominated by large corporations but now revitalized by emerging market entrants, the Japanese whisky industry is nearing a stage of full maturity.

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