China has a rich and well-documented history of jewelry that spans over 3,000 years, dating back to the Shang dynasty when pieces often reflected class, wealth, spirituality, and superstition.
Originally, the purpose of jewelry was to convey opulence and luxury, reserved for the elite - emperors, queens, and governors, to signify their high social standing. But as the concept evolved, it also became accessible to the general population.
People want to have something that holds significance on their body," said Noelle Chin, marketing lead at Meilan Jewelry and Arts. "They wear jewellery because it's a reflection of themselves and they wish to reestablish a connection to their roots.
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Iconic materials in ancient Chinese jewelry include jadeite and gold, which were favored for their beauty, rarity, and - in the case of the former especially - their ability to act as a vessel to bring the wearer closer to the gods, according to Yve Chan, founder of jewelry collective Dawn Atelier & Academy.
While still in favour today, the folklore associated with these materials "is fading", said Austy Lee of the eponymous art jewelry label, so houses today are now making this cultural significance apparent through modern craftsmanship to educate Chinese and international audiences alike.
Precious materials such as silver, rubies, and emeralds have gained popularity over the course of China's economic boom in recent decades, which has sparked a heightened interest in global culture and altered the landscape of jewellery purchasing, much like many other aspects.
Jade encompasses a broader term that can be categorized into two subtypes, nephrite and jadeite," Chan stated. "Artifacts in museums and auction houses that originated over 1,000 years ago are typically nephrite, characterized as softer and paler in hue, and primarily sourced from northern regions of China.
Most jadeite originates mainly from Myanmar and is available in many colours, including white, green, blue-green, lavender, red, yellow and black, which are all produced by elements that seep into the stone.
The Meilan collection showcases these shades in its earrings and pendants, highlighting the excellence of Type A jadeite. Verifying this quality is the Hong Kong Gems Laboratory, which refutes the assumption that quality is solely defined by color and origin. The brand has also experimented with a flat polish finish, surprisingly successfully. According to Chin, "Jadeite becomes more transparent over time as it absorbs natural oils when worn closely against the body. This adds a unique character to each piece, rendering it an engaging accessory whose beauty evolves over the years."
Using necklaces, along with rings and bangles, is very common, and there is a famous belief which says that people who accidentally break the latter type of accessory have avoided evil spirits.
We have a multitude of idioms in China that convey the idea that an individual should strive to be like jade," Chan said, illustrating her point with: "To develop oneself into a good person requires time and dedication, much like patiently refining jade until it reaches its full potential.
Lee believes that many young people in Hong Kong view jade as an "old ornament," and for this reason, he is developing designs that combine multiple precious materials, such as sapphires, abalone shells, and gold, in his Jade Dynasty collection.
"Delicate gold craftsmanship conveys incredible strength," said Chan, highlighting the mastery of ancient Chinese artisans in transforming metal into intricate, mythical creatures or breathtaking natural scenes.
A contemporary example would be the presentation of intricately engraved gold bangles at Chinese weddings, given by families to newlyweds to bestow blessings and prosperity. Chan comments, "Wedding rings are among our significant business segments. The type of ring you choose can symbolize your personal values, and I believe our craftsmanship process can also convey cultural narratives."
While Lee employs gold in a conventional manner, he has also incorporated traditional Japanese hairpins from the Meiji period into his bespoke jewelry. "This gold is integrated into layers of lacquer, and multiple polishing techniques contribute to distinct patterns. These pieces possess priceless value - many people have overlooked these techniques, and some consider them outdated, but I believe they retain a certain appeal."
Gold remains the preferred metal in China and across Asia, and Meilan combines it with jadeite in style-neutral designs to create understated pendant necklaces that bring luxury materials within reach for everyday wear.
During the Tang and Song dynasties, which took place in the first two centuries AD, silver's significance in the monetary system and decorative objects surpassed its use in jewellery. Although, there are recorded instances of silver being crafted into hairpins during the Qing dynasty, spanning from the 17th to the 20th century.
"Silver is a cultural reflection of British society. Canton exported silver to the UK during the 18th century in exchange for opium, which they used for making silverware." This was consistent with the chinoiserie trend of the period, admired across Europe, and gave rise to the term "export silver", referring to wares created by Asian silversmiths to cater to foreign tastes.
Those tastes have continued to influence jewelry making to this day. "Sterling silver is more pliable and easier to shape than gold or platinum. That's one reason why people enjoy making jewelry with it," said Chin.
I fully agree, 'silver is a good, clean material. It's affordable, and yet we can still express a lot of these traditional techniques in our projects.'
Lee's fascination with the history of jewelry - which he has taught at Hong Kong Baptist University - has influenced his design philosophy and is reflected in his use of gemstones like rubies and emeralds. Once reserved for imperial headwear, these gems have only recently begun to capture the interest of the general public.
Chan has noted a similar trend: "Over the past decade, Chinese customers have developed a strong desire for foreign materials, broadening their understanding of jewelry by embracing the tradition of Western gems."
Approximately five decades ago, individuals with emerging wealth collected gemstones from Thailand, but the stones had significantly fewer carats. Roughly three decades past, those with means admired brands such as Cartier for artistic and design inspiration. During the past decade and two decades, people sought out auction houses to invest in high-value gemstones, whereas today there is a rising interest in acquiring personally commissioned pieces.
For a Chinese designer in today's interconnected world, I believe it's essential that consumers understand their cultural roots through design elements.
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This article was first published on the South China Morning Post (www.scmp.com), the leading news outlet covering China and Asia.
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