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Thousands of bottles of sparkling wine retrieved from ocean floor

3 min read

They appear to be embarking on a deep-sea expedition to investigate a sunken ship on the ocean bed.

Experts are checking on hundreds of bottles of sparkling wine deliberately submerged at the bottom of the Arctic Ocean, off the coast of Norway. The wine has been aging for around eight months in the dark, icy conditions at a temperature of around 5 degrees Celsius.

This gives it a 'distinctive' taste, making it so popular that the number of bottles submerged there has tripled over the past three years.

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The drink's journey starts at Rathfinny Wine Estate, a family-owned vineyard in East Sussex, where Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, and Chardonnay grapes are carefully hand-picked to create a Classic Cuvee champagne-style sparkling wine.

The bottles are aged for 30 months before being sealed, capped with wax, then shipped to Norway, placed in crates and submerged to a depth of 112 feet (34 metres) at concealed locations along the coast.

The latest shipment of 4,500 bottles for this year's season was a substantial rise from the 1,500 bottles that were submerged in 2022 for the 2023 season. Owing to a sharp increase in demand, it is expected to rise even further, with as many as 5,000 bottles to be submerged this September.

Scientists acknowledge that the precise mechanism behind this process remains unclear.

The concept is that aging wine underwater in deep seas preserves its 'freshness' due to the high pressure, while the gentle ocean currents help to create a smoother texture and more delicate bubbles.

"The stable underwater environment enhances the flavor of the wine, improving its fizz, while balancing its acidity and sweetness for a smoother taste experience," said Tani Gurra, beverage director at Hurtigruten.

The wine is currently only available to passengers on Hurtigruten's ships, priced at £93 per bottle, increasing to £193 for a magnum. However, the company hasn't ruled out making it more widely available. "We're always inspired by the enthusiasm of our guests to have a taste of Norway at home," Mr Gurra said.

Charlotte Kristensen taste tests the sea-aged Havets Bobler: Delightful... like savoring the tangy sweetness of a classic lemon meringue pie.

Tasting wine without knowing its identity is crucial for making a genuine evaluation, eliminating any preconceptions we may have about the label, the producer, and the price.

I compared the sea-aged Rathfinny 2018 with Hambledon's Chalk Hills NV (£37) and Balfour Classic Cuvée NV (£23), both of which are made from slightly different blends of the classic Champagne grapes: chardonnay, pinot noir, and pinot meunier.

I eliminated the first wine as a strong candidate for the sea-aged wine – it was actually the Balfour.

The second and third wines were more challenging to interpret. They possessed a layered depth, especially with regards to the rich, sweet aromas reminiscent of baked goods.

The richer golden color of the Rathfinny, a sign of its age and sparkle, and its pure flavor led me to choose it as the ocean-aged wine. However, it was a very close decision.

The Rathfinny has undeniable elegance – a refined choice to pair with sophisticated dishes like scallops with saffron or crab gratin.

The fragrance is crisp and powerful, with a strong citrus scent and the aroma of sweet baked treats. On the palate, it's lively and develops in layers - much like experiencing a lemon meringue pie: the rich pastry crust, the tangy lemon filling, the smooth topping.

One thing a blind taste test cannot evaluate is the role a wine's narrative plays in the tasting experience – that is part of the magic of wine.

  • Charlotte Kristensen is the author of Wine: Taste, Pair, Pour.
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